Clay Marzo and Asperger

As a child, Clay collected seashells and played at Puamana beach. By age 2 he could ride a boogie board standing up, and at 3 or 4 switched to a surfboard. Everyone in the family surfed, including his grandmother and older brother, Cheyne Magnusson, also a professional surfer. "Clay was so natural in the water that I didn't even worry," Jill says of those early days. "He was incredibly in tune with it from a young age."

Still, she greeted the movie idea with skepticism. "I was really nervous," she admits. "I didn't want to expose it. I worried that people would treat him differently or that he would be embarrassed by it." Instead, the film and an extensive article in Surfer Magazine yielded e-mails from others inspired by Clay's unique pursuit of his passion. That, she says, made the journey worthwhile.

When asked what makes his surfing remarkable, Clay shrugs. "I don't know. The whole approach I have." The best part? It's definitely all his own.


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